We start with an e60 wood core that gets sanded down to make room for the extra material of the carbon fiber and epoxy.

After laying the pieces out on the fabric (we went with an upgraded 20oz 2×2 twill for the M5), we carefully cut it out to the appropriate sizes.

We then mix up some bonding epoxy and apply it to the pieces.

A few hours later, the fabric has been applied and the first major step on the trim is completed.  This week, we’ll start adding epoxy to the pieces to give it the gloss and depth that most people associate with carbon fiber.

The Jetta and GLI trim is interchangeable, so the guide should be the same for both. The Golf/GTI is slightly different interior trim, in both shape and size, but I’d assume the tabs and removal process will be very similar.

Tools needed:
1) small electronics screwdriver
2) t20 torx bit screwdriver
3) masking tape

Estimated time required:
45 minutes

Lets start with the tools needed. I prefer a small screwdriver over a regular one because the space I’m trying to wedge into is very tight. A regular sized screwdriver has a tough time getting in there, where as a small one works perfectly. I like to put some masking tape on the end of the screwdriver so I don’t scratch anything. The torx screwdriver is needed to drop the glovebox.

Start by putting a bit of the masking tape on the end of your screwdriver. This will prevent it from scratching any of the plastic on your trim or the door card.

Just fold it over a few times so that it is not too thick. Tear away any extra masking tape.

I like to start on the rear doors when I’m removing trim for the first time. This way, if I screw anything up, it won’t be more noticeable from the front seats. Take the freshly taped screw driver and wedge it in the top corner of the trim and the door card.

Lift it up slightly. This can be a bit tricky and it might feel like the trim is going to break. Just go slow and keep at it until you can get your fingers under there.

Once you’ve got it up enough to get your fingers under the trim, start pulling gently. Use one hand on the top of the trim and the other hand on the bottom of the trim and eventually it will pull one of the tabs free. Once you’ve felt the first tab come free, work your way down to the next tab.

There are four tabs total. Just keep moving down to the rear of the piece as each tab comes free. Be sure you use a hand on the top and the bottom of the trim when pulling (I could only use one hand, I needed to use my other to snap the picture).

Eventually the piece will come free. You can see the locations of the tabs here.

One thing to take note of: sometimes the clips that are in the door will stay on the trim. Be aware of this and don’t lose the clips or your trim will not reinstall properly and could possibly rattle.

That clip should be in the door card like this.

If one of your clips does stay with the trim, just remove it and push it back into place.

Thats all there is to removing the door pieces. Repeat the steps for the remaining doors and get ready to do the dash.

You’ll need to remove your headlight switch first.

Start with the switch in the off position.

From there, you’re going to push in slightly. The switch will stop when you’ve pushed in far enough.

It doesn’t need to be pushed in very far, maybe 2-3mm at most.

While still pushing in, you’re going to turn the switch about halfway between off and on. Again, it will stop when you’ve gone far enough.

Doesn’t need to get turned very far.

From there, you can pull the switch free.

The turning mechanism retracts a small latch that keeps the switch in place.

Once you’ve got the switch out, you press the small tab here to get the wiring off.

With the switch out, use two fingers under the bottom left side of the piece and pull out. The trim is only held in with two tabs and should come out very easily.

Now we need to drop the glove box.

Do not attempt to remove the dash trim by pulling it out. You will bend (and possibly break) the trim. It is held in with torx screws, so the glove box must be dropped to get access to the back of the trim to remove the screws.

Start by removing the fuse box cover. Use your taped up small screw driver and start at the bottom.

Work your way up and 2 of the 3 tabs that hold it in place will come free. You can pull it off with your hands after that.

Next remove the torx screw inside the fuse box cover.

Then open up the glove box and remove the torx screws that are just below the trim on the inside of the glove box. They are recessed about 3-4 inches.

There are two more torx screws at the base of the glove box that need to be removed as well. One on the very left and one on the very right. Once these last two torx screws are removed, you should be able to drop the glove box.

You’ll need to disconnect the wiring harness that powers the glove box light. You can do this by pressing in the tabs on the top and bottom.

With the glove box fully dropped, you finally have access to the 3 torx screws on the back of the trim. Remove them and the dash trim will be free.

To reassemble the glove box, repeat the steps in reverse order. There are some tabs on the left of the glove box that will act as a guideline and will hold it in place while you’re redoing the torx screws. With these tabs inserted correctly, the glove box should be able to stay up on its own without any torx screws in.

Thats it! You’re done, and your new oCarbon trim is ready to be installed.

We start with the raw fabric wrapped onto the original plastic parts.

Then gradually add epoxy resin.  You can see that the kevlar doesn’t soak in the epoxy very well, so the texture of the fabric can still be seen somewhat on the surface.  This will have to be aggressively sanded smooth after the parts are cured.

The radio face has multiple sections that will need to be drilled out by hand.  This is, by far, the most time consuming part on the set.

These will go into the oven for a post cure in the next couple of days.  After that, they’ll get trimmed and sanded smooth and ready for clearcoat.

Here it is all finished up.

We took the original trunk trim and ground it down to make room for the fabric and epoxy.  We went with a custom fabric to match the customer’s interior trim.

At first we were just going to wrap the front of the piece and paint the bottom black.  But then we decided that would make the part incomplete and the CTS-V deserved better, so we wrapped the entire part and planned on cutting out holes for the trunk latch and the plate lights.

The customer requested that we remove the Cadillac logo, so we filled it in and sanded it smooth.  The logo can no longer be seen.

Added several coats of epoxy.

Sanded smooth and clearcoated.

And the finish product.

Discounts will be given to those who purchase multiple parts.  More discounts will be given to those who can send their parts in to be wrapped (perfect for those of you who lock your Porsche up for the winter).  It takes about 3-4 weeks to manufacture these parts, sometimes a bit longer, especially on the Porsche stuff as some of the pieces are complex.

Additional pieces can be made upon request.  If you see a part you want done made by someone else, chances are, we can do it as well.  We are a small shop (just a few guys in a warehouse out in Arizona) so we don’t have a ton of overhead and can make these parts cheaper than a lot of other manufacturers.  Because our parts are custom made by hand here in the US, we can tailor your parts to you and wrap them in whatever fabric you want, in whatever finish you want.  Silver, red, blue, you name it.  We only use the highest quality fabric (11oz or higher weight, almost every other shop only uses 5.7oz – higher weight means more individual strands of carbon, which leads to a tighter, straighter weave) and pro quality epoxies that resist yellowing over time.

If you’re interested in setting up an order or have any questions, feel free to email me at matt@ocarbon.com

Pricing:

Map covers – $425

Door pulls – $400

Instrument surround – $400

Ignition surround – $125

Hazard surround – $125

Radio – $500