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few more interior shots from the adam’s rotors S8

We have a few more interior shots from the Adam’s Rotors feature on StanceWorks.  A full, detailed write up can be found here:

http://www.stanceworks.com/2011/02/rotors8/

This set was a custom made 9oz plain weave.  I’ve only done a few sets in this particular fabric, so it’s pretty rare.  The Adam’s Rotors logo embedded in the epoxy on the ashtray cover was a nice custom touch as well.

“OEM” B8 Vent and MMI trim production – part 1

Got a bunch of these in a little bit ago and have begun production on them. The goal will be to produce these in a 8 harness satin weave (8HS) so that they are similar to the OEM carbon atlas trim found in the B8 S4.

We’re going to be doing these pieces differently than most of our other trim, so the production should be interesting. Most of our pieces are just wet laid by hand, but these will be vacuum assisted layup, possibly with some latex molds.  We want to use a vacuum to help form the fabric to the part because of how complex it is (sometimes when doing it by hand, there would be lifting issues around some of the curves).  The vacuum parts are much more time consuming, but the quality of the part increases considerably.

If you wish to take a look at how we produced these pieces via wet lay, you can check out our earlier posts like these two:

I’ll keep the blog updated as we work our way through production on them over the coming weeks.

We got the vacuum rig built and spent a little bit of time testing it in different conditions and with a few different epoxies. At first we had some problems with leaks and boost (only 2PSI) but once we got it figured out (stronger bags, tighter seals) its running at 20PSI or so.

One of the big setbacks that I’ve still got to try to figure it out is how to keep vacuum once I disengage the pump. I’m not sure if it is possible, but it will speed up production to be able to build a few of these, run the pump and get it tight, then remove the pump and move on to the next rig. As it stands now, I’ll only be able to make one part at a time and will have to keep it running a day or so while each one cures.

I’m also going to try connecting a few different rigs to the pump at once and see if the pump is strong enough to handle multiple pieces at once.

Either way, some of the legit parts will be finishing up over the next week or so.

Here are some pics of the RHD test pieces we were messing around with:

After playing around with the test pieces for a bit, it was time to start a real part with the matching 8HS fabric.

The fabric is taped and cut to fit the part.

I now paint the silver piece black before it is wrapped.  This ensures that there are no silver bits peeking around on the edges, or perhaps where there is a sliver of a gap in the weave of the fabric.

Epoxy is applied to the part.

Part is placed in the vacuum and is instantly molded.

Stay tuned for more…

d2 a8/s8 trim removal guide

D2 A8/S8 Trim Removal Guide

Big thanks to Adam from Adam’s Rotors for taking the time to document his trim swap from wood trim to an oCarbon carbon fiber trim set.  You can check out his sweet S8 project over on Audizine here.  The man has proven yet again he knows how to build out cars.

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Before you start your own removal, make sure you read through this guide in its entirety.  It is also advised that you read the supplementary Audipages.com guides.

Audipages.com detailed armrest removal

Audipages.com trim removal guide

Tools needed:

  • Flathead screwdriver (or a plastic trim tool)
  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • Small torx screwdriver
  • 5mm and 6mm allen keys

Time required: 2 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

The full kit all laid out.  4 door pieces, 2 dash pieces, radio surround, shifter, ashtray cover, small cubby cover, large cubby cover, ebrake cover, and rear HVAC cover.  Thirteen total pieces.

We’ll start with the easiest pieces.  The rear door pieces are very simple, just wedge your flat head screw driver (or plastic trim tool) under the piece.  Pry back gently and the tabs will release.  There are tabs all along the door, so just work your way from the rear of the piece to the front until it is removed.

Replace it with the new piece in a similar manner, starting at the rear inserting each tab and making sure it is secure before moving to the next.

Repeat the same process with the front doors.

For the rear HVAC cover, remove the cigarette lighter first.  Same principle with this piece as the door pieces.  Wedge your screwdriver under the piece and pry it out.

Once the original HVAC piece has been removed, you’ll see what you need to do next.

There are several small clips that need to be popped out with a small screw driver.

Once the clips have been removed, you can swap the plastic housing to the new piece and reattach the clips.

Push the HVAC cover back into place.

The ebrake cover lifts right out, however once it is removed, you’ll see that it needs to be “broken” to remove the wood piece from the plastic bottom.  There are three small rivets that keep it in place that must be popped off.  There is a small chance you’ll be able to maintain the rivets, but be prepared to use an adhesive to help secure the new piece to the original plastic bottom.

Pop the post in between the armrests off by inserting your screwdriver under it and gently prying up.  This will expose the allen screw.  Unscrew the allen screw completely and remove.  There is a tapered bracket support for the armrest holding it in place, so you’re going to need to knock it a few times to get it lose.  More information about this step can be found in the supplemental Audipages.com guide.

Audipages.com detailed armrest removal

Once your armrest is completely removed, the wood piece just pulls right out.  It is held in with the same types of tabs as the door pieces.

Although not pictured, the radio surround piece is held in with the exact same tabs.  If you put the shifter in neutral and reach your hands underneath the piece, you can feel the bottom edge at the back of the piece.  Just pull this forward and the bottom tabs will release.  Keep pulling gently and the top tabs will release as well.  Remove the tabs attached to the switches, and use your torx screwdriver to remove the hazard trim.  Consult the Audipages.com guide if you have trouble with this step:

Audipages.com trim removal guide

Up next is the shifter piece.  On each side of this piece, there are two screws on each side holding the mounting bracket for the shifter piece in place.  If you peel away the carpeting that is along the side of the center console, you’ll see these hex screws.  Remove the screws, and the shifter plate assembly will pull right out.  If you get lost on this step, consult the Audipages.com guide:

Audipages.com trim removal guide

Once the shifter plate is out, you can remove the screws that hold the rubber bit that sits along the chrome.

The ashtray is somewhat tricky, but simple at the same time.   Do not over complicate this step.   It is held on with little plastic posts on a track. With the ashtray slightly open, rock the piece slightly towards the front of the car.  You’ll feel it disengage.  Then slide the cover back towards the rear of the car and lift it out.  You might have to play with it a little bit to get it right.

Once the cover is out, you’ll have to remove the plastic tracks from the original piece and put them on your new piece.  They just slide off as well.

This compartment is held on by two phillips head screws.

Remove them both.

Detach the wiring by pressing in the tab.

Once the cubby is completely out of the car, you’ll see that it is held in by three small screws.

Almost done.  For the dash piece, you’ll need to open the glove box to get access to the vent.

When you open the glove box, you instinct will tell you to unscrew these two hex screws, but these are not the ones to remove.  It is actually the one that is in between the two, slightly below them.  Once you remove this screw, the vent will pull out.

With the vent removed, you need to remove a c-clip that is holding the a bolt and nut in the back of the trim right where Adam’s finger is pointing above.  The nut does not need to be unscrewed, as once the c-clip is removed, the piece will slide out completely.  There is a small hinge on the left side of the dash piece, so there is nothing to remove on that side.

The small dash piece is very similar, except on this side you’re going to have to remove the large plastic piece that is in the same spot as the glove box.  Pop off the small long plastic piece pictured above to expose two hex screws.  There are also two more screws at the base of this large plastic piece  that need to be removed as well.  Once this piece is off, you’ll have to remove the vent in the exact same fashion as the previous vent.  Once the vent is out, remove the exact same c-clamp and the small dash piece will pop right out.

Once again, if you have trouble with the dash pieces, check out the Audipages.com guide:

Audipages.com trim removal guide

Looking for 2 e90 BMW owners to get a free set of trim…

For any BMW owners that are unfamiliar with oCarbon, we make replacement trim sets in real carbon fiber (none of that fake vinyl sticker stuff here).  We’ll take the OEM wood set, strip it down, wrap it with a 20oz 2×2 twill carbon fiber, cover it in epoxy, sand it smooth, clearcoat the pieces in an automotive polyurethane, and buff them to a shine.  This kind of quality doesn’t come cheap, but the attention to detail and the materials used are what set oCarbon trim apart from imitations and Chinese knockoffs.

We’re looking to start making sets for BMW’s and we need 2 e90 owners to be the test mules.  We’d like to find one e90 coupe owner and one e90 sedan owner.  Preference will be given to M3s.

What we’d need from you:

1) An extra set of wood trim that fits your particular vehicle.   You’d need to scope out another set of wood trim on your BMW forums (like this for example) or on eBay.  You should be able to find a cheap one for around $100-150.  Set can be scratched, beat up, whatever, so getting a mint set is not important, just make sure it fits your car and that no pieces are missing/broken. I don’t know enough about BMWs yet to know all the differences between the models and the options (iDrive, non-iDrive, etc) so pay extra attention to whatever 2nd set of trim that you’re purchasing and be sure that it fits your car. You have to buy a 2nd set, as I don’t want you bugging me to rush things because you’re driving around without your original trim.

2) A little patience. It’s probably going to take me at least a month, if not longer make the set. I have to go very slow with the first sets I make for a new model. Take measurements, redo spots that might not fit correctly, things of that nature.  You will want me going slow and getting it right the first time.  This is why we want you purchasing a cheap 2nd set of trim.

3) A promise to post whore my product up on national forums.

4) Your original trim after we make the swap.  So after we’re done with the carbon fiber set and it is installed in your car, you ‘ll have to return your original trim back to us.

5) Good installed pictures of the trim for our product page.

What you’ll get from me:

1) A set of real carbon fiber trim for free.  Aside from your costs involved with purchasing a 2nd set of trim, we’ll take care of everything else, including shipping the trim to you.  I suspect we’ll be selling these sets for $800-900, so you’re getting a killer deal.

2) My undying gratitude for helping a small business that’s trying hard to offer new products to new markets.

3) Exposure on my website/blog for your car (I’ve got a few cars coming up in some national magazines soon).

If you’re an e90 owner and you’re interested, email me at matt@ocarbon.com with the subject line “e90 trim.”  Include the following info about your car:  model, year, transmission, and which forums you’re a member of.  Also include any other information that you think is pertinent and will help me pick you and your car.

Do not email me about any other BMW models.  After we get the e90 sorted, we’ll start considering other models and chassis

Adam’s Rotors D2 S8 carbon fiber trim production…

A few months ago Adam from Adam’s Rotors approached me about doing a custom set for his Project S8, which has been uniquely dubbed ROTORS8.  At first I was a little hesitant, as the A8/S8 sets are large and cumbersome, but after talking with Adam for a bit I decided to press ahead.  Working with him over the last few weeks has been fun and I’ve enjoyed watching his project car get transformed.

When Adam first contacted me, he made it clear that he was looking for something a little different.  I suggested a 9oz plain weave, which is very uncommon on Audis, but still has a distinct carbon fiber look.

First, I stripped the original core pieces and bonded the plain fabric to them.

After applying the first coat of resin.  You can still see the fabric poking through, so many more coats are needed before it can be sanded.

Two or three coats later and you can start to see how the pieces will turn out:

We decided to do an Adam’s Rotors logo under the resin on the front ashtray piece:

Once the resin had cured, I stuck them all in an oven for two days to help the post cure.  I could then trim off all the extra fabric and start sanding the pieces smooth:

Once the pieces were all trimmed and sanded, they were ready for clearcoat:

A few of the next few pictures are after the first coat of clearcoat, and the pictures after that are of the second coat of clearcoat.  We always do at least 2 wet coats of clearcoat so that our pieces have a really nice depth to them:

Once the clearcoat firms up a bit, we stick it under the infared lamp for a bit to speed up the cure.

When the clearcoat is fully cured, it is ready for a quick wetsand and polish:

These pieces are on their way to Adam now, so hopefully we’ll get some good installed pics of them coming up in the near future.

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